THE BEYPORE LIGHTHOUSE

Our mission was to discover the Beypore lighthouse. So we set out on a nice bright day our hearts singing with joy and overflowing with enthusiasm. After an initial teeth rattling bone jarring ride in an ancient auto owned by a very friendly local named Moideen we arrived at Beypore port. Along the way we passed many local attractions including the Chaliyar River dotted with colorful steamers chugging quietly along, the Feroke Tile factory a place steeped in history and of some antiquity and an ancient mosque built along the lines of a Hindu temple, which in itself was rather unique.

Located some 15km from the heart of the bustling Calicut city centre, Beypore is a small sleepy port town with a single thoroughfare. Our auto plunged, twisted and turned through numerous country lanes scattered with brightly painted fishing cottages, where the shy fisher folk peered at us from their verandahs. After losing our way a couple of times and coming close to annihilating a couple of dimwitted squawking free range chickens, we finally ran down a person who could give us the accurate location of the lighthouse.

Standing proudly on a small strip of land that jutted dangerously out into the sea, we finally spotted the statuesque red and white beauty. Gulls and hawks wheeled and dipped around her with joyous abandon.

The lighthouse as such stood inside a massive gated compound dotted with coconut mango and areca nut trees. There were three small outhouses flanking the lighthouse. These housed the generator, the office and sleeping quarters of the lighthouse personnel.

A massive burgundy wooden door with brass handles opened onto a spiral stone staircase with polished teak railings. Small glass windows set high in the walls, gave us a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside which unfolded in all its wondrous green glory. A wraparound viewing deck at the very top of the lighthouse afforded us an unobstructed view of the sea and the far away fishing vessels and ships.

Built in 1977 the Beypore lighthouse stands tall at 32.41metres. The optical equipment supplied by J Stone and Co has 4 panels and can generate a powerful flash once every 15 seconds at a revolution speed of 2 R.P.M.

With the advent of new technology lighthouses are slowing being nudged into oblivion. One among a handful of still functioning lighthouses a visit to this landmark is a must for first time travelers to Calicut.

A WALK IN THE HILLS

A lone eagle flew high overhead, wheeling, a black dot in the clear blue sky. The air was crisp and chill and we sat watching the wood smoke curling upwards from one of the hutments far below. Our vantage point was the Ganesh temple nestled in the hills high above the surrounding plains.

It was the month of August. There had been a small interlude between the torrential rains and we used this opportunity to explore the hills bordering our house. A short steep climb along the tarred road bought us to the foothills. From there a tiny path threaded its way through the dense foliage. Trees in a thousand shades of green blanketed the entire hillside. Pale sunlight filtered through the forest canopy taking on an ethereal greenish tinge. Suddenly a bird disturbed by our footfall exploded from the forest floor and flew upwards in a riot of colors. A koel hidden in one of the upper branches of a mango tree serenaded us with its sweet haunting cry. A tiny squirrel chattering happily skittered up a nearby neem tree.

As we trekked upwards we suddenly spied a tiny white edifice. A red flag on its tiled roof fluttered lazily in the breeze. Tucked away between tall trees it could easily be missed. We stood gazing at it for a long time.

A distant ominous rumble sent us scrambling for shelter. Pelting rain soon followed. Soaked to the skin we finally reached the white building which turned out to be a temple. For the next half hour the temple provided us refuge from the driving rain. Sitting on its broad, stone- flagged verandah we had a bird’s eye view of the surrounding countryside.

After about an hour the rain slowly died down. The sun came out in its entire golden splendor. The newly washed leaves glistened in the sunlight and the heady smell of wet earth filled us with a sense of well being. Reluctantly we decided to head home before the rain commenced.

Although we have visited the temple several times subsequently, we have never quite been able to recapture the magic of that first visit in the rain.